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Set – Interview

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Even if you haven’t heard of Set before there’s a good chance you’ve seen them around. For the last four years Set have been gaining a cult following on social media and among street-wear enthusiasts, leading to the classic Old English “S” logo becoming instantly recognisable amongst the UK scene.

I first came across Set in 2012 and it has been interesting to see how the brand has evolved since then. Set’s early look-books showed a clear influence of skate and urban culture, which has continually progressed to the point where they are one of the most relevant new brands in the current street-wear scene. So much so that the brand have received recognition from influential figures in UK fashion such as Rejjie Snow and Skepta.

“Less Is More” isn’t just a slogan they put on some of their pieces, it is the idea behind the brands aesthetic. When Jack Richardson founded Set, the idea was to take a clean, simple approach towards design and a timeless approach to making the clothing itself, which is evident in the brands latest season. The Spring/Summer 16 line saw the brand explore new takes on classic street-wear pieces such as half zip jumpers, polo caps and signet rings.

We speak with brand founder Jack to get a bit more background on the brand and their latest release…

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Where does the name come from?

Set. It was the name for a Fanzine I was doing as a project in college & it was basically a magazine about loads of things; skating, street-wear, cycling, music and hiking; the name Set just came from that and it just looked cool for logos.

What has influenced the designs for your latest collection?

A lot of the stuff that was released this season has been in the pipeline for a while. I just wanted to bring out some staple pieces. The S logo t-shirts and ‘Less Is More’ hoodies show the brands aesthetic. I’ve been promising people the signet rings for a while so I’m really happy they are out now but the influence is just what I see people wearing & my own version of it really.

How would you say the brand has evolved since you started?

It’s evolved so much it was just an idea back then. It’s a real thing now and its only getting bigger. I’m excited to see what the next few years have to offer and where the brand goes.

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What lead to you creating/finding your brand identity?

I guess it’s an extension of myself really. I design everything myself so its just the type of stuff me and my friends wanted to wear.

If you could collab with any other brand whom would you pick and why?

Champion, Vans or Adidas. Just because they are companies I have always looked up to and they make really good products.

Do you have projects in the pipeline?

Yeah I’m planning a string of Pop up shops in Birmingham, Manchester and London over the summer, which will all be in conjunction with local artists & creatives. If all goes to plan they will be open for a few days in each city offering new & old pieces, as well as some in store exclusives.

www.setstore.co.uk

 

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Words: George Metcalf 

Imagery courtesy of Set 

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Palace x adidas Originals Summer 16

 

 Palace & adidas Originals revive their hugely popular collaborative series this season with a new Summer collection, and it's arguably one of their strongest so far. 

When the first collaboration came about back in 2014 there was no doubt that it was as good as it promised to be, but two or three collections down the line and there was a slight worry in my mind that it could start to go stale, despite all the right ingredients being there. Their latest effort will definitely re-ignite the interest of all the doubters as Palace put their unique twist to one of the most diverse collections to date comprised of a range of classic and more innovative sportswear silhouettes. Alongside the expected chilled tracksuit tops, three stripe bottoms, graphic pullovers and football inspired polo tops, the range is lead by a seamless tonal two piece tracksuit, bearing the iconic tri-ferg logo as a back piece and constructed from a premium soft velour. The collection is rounded off with nice added touches including a matching velour towel and cap, draw-string gym bags and two new tonal suede reworks of the sleek and skate friendly Palace Pro silhouette. 

 The Palace x adidas Originals Summer 16 will be dropping online, in store and at select UK retailers from Saturday the 21st of May. 

 

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Nike SB Zoom All Court CK in University Gold

 

Nike SB continue to get it right with Cory Kennedy's signature All Court silhouette as they drop a new bold 'University Gold' colour way just in time for the warm weather. Keeping much of the construction the same as previous releases, the old tennis court shoe has been reworked in to a durable skate staple with a rugged brushed suede upper, Zoom Air cushioning in the sole unit for protection upon impact and a protective rubber toe cap for improved flick. The shoes Gold upper is contrasted with off white suede detailing on the upper including lacing and swoosh, and sits on top of a stark white sole unit.

You can pick up the Nike SB Zoom All Court CK in University Gold over at Flatspot. now.

 

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Watch: The Dime Video

 

Montreal’s Dime come through with their fourth video drop and it’s banging! Featuring riders Alexis Lacroix, Andrew McGraw, Antoine Asselin, Leon Chapdelaine, Jamal Smith, Kevin Lowry, Will Marshall, Kyle Macdonald, Dustin Henry, Sam Chouinard, Zander Mitchell, Gab Ekoe, Joey Larock, Jake Johnson, Ian Clelland, Chris St-Cyr, Charles Rivard, Tyler Warren and Bob Lasalle, alongside some solid rollerblade action from Hugo Balek, the 14 minute clip by Phil Lavoie follows the crew through the streets of their native city, cut to the sounds of 50 Cent, Too $hort, Jim Jones and more.

Check the full clip above and head to dimemtl.com for more

 

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Butter Goods Winter 2016 Lookbook

 

 This week saw the return of Butter Goods in UK stores, and as the warmer weather finally starts to grace our shores, the Perth brand have gifted us with some Winter specials from down under perfectly suited for the unpredictable British summer. 

 It's a lot of similar vibes from Butter Goods for Winter 16, following their signature look for the visuals, shot on 35mm by Garth Mariano and James Whineray, the collection itself isn't far aesthetically from the previous releases, following similar themes and keeping each style simple. Aside from the familiar globe logo graphic, as well as revisiting the long sleeve rugby top designs and several lightweight outerwear pieces, we also see some strong quarter-zip styles, alongside new tongue-in-cheek graphics and an updated colour palette applied to pullover graphic hoodies and tee's. The release is bulked out with a strong selection of headwear ranging from 5-panels to beanies, featuring subtle embroidered detailing throughout. Stand out pieces for us includes the Supreme-esque Miles Davis graphic tee, Rugged Terrain cap & the  Rose Coach Jacket in Khaki. 

You can pick up the latest collection from Butter Goods over on the brands webstore or at select retailers including Flatspot. Urban Industry. 

 

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Goma Collective – Interview

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Since the Young & Laced programme was introduced back in 2013 it has had a hugely positive impact on the lives of several young creatives in various fields, providing a platform & support to help them pursue their ideas. Back in 2015 the programme re-focused their efforts towards skateboarding in a bid to discover young creatives surrounding the culture and in doing so found Mikey Krzyzanowski, a young skateboarder from Oxford, and his project – Goma Collective.  Through art, design, film & photography, Goma has been responsible for several projects of their own, as well as introducing a concise but strong line of clothing and hard goods inspired by the work of the young creatives around them. With help from Mentors Bobby Pecotic & Jerome Campbell, alongside working with photographer Tom Delion and illustrator/printmaker Gaurab, Mikey’s Goma collective continues to grow and explore new areas in which they can raise awareness and have a positive impact towards various communities across the globe. We were lucky enough to catch up with Mikey following the release of the brands Nepal project to find out more on the origins of the collective, the importance of sustainability and plans for future projects…

 

For those that aren’t too familiar, could you give us a bit of background on Goma collective and how it came about?

Goma is a growing collective of creative heads. We’ve been working together to produce limited releases of product, with a minimum of 5% of our profits going to community projects. I started it through a project called ‘Young & Laced’ that I was part of last year. It’s pretty early doors but I’m really stoked on where it’s going.

What’s the inspiration behind the logo and name?

My dad had a friend called Robert Loughlin who was an artist in New York, he had a face that he drew everywhere and I love the idea of having an image like that. He was a big inspiration for the logo for sure. I worked with Gaurab Thakali on it, he painted it based on Jazz drummer Max Roach.

The name means a lot of different things, but that’s not why I chose it.

Who currently makes up the collective?

The kinds of people that make up Goma are illustrators, photographers and filmmakers, musicians and we’re even working with some guys in the food industry at the moment too. I want to keep it growing that way, it broadens the horizon in terms of what we kind of project we can do.

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A large focus for the collective is sustainability. Do you feel there is a lack of sustainably conscious brands in the market?

There is a lack of them yeah. I think the reason why is because a lot of people look at ‘sustainability’ as some weird hippy thing haha. They see it as a niche not necessity. For anything to change, brands need to be approached in the right way. You can’t expect everyone to immediately want to save the environment. It’s difficult for some people to want to do anything if the case for change isn’t right there in front of them. I think more time should be put into making ‘sustainability’ more relevant to brands. You’re going to get nowhere by just telling people they’re doing it wrong.

You spoke in your interview with Grey Magazine on your intention to use Bamboo blanks. Has this idea developed any further since then?

I thought Bamboo blanks would have been a good idea because Bamboo can grow much faster than Maple, so it’s less of a problem to cut bamboo down. We’re going a step further and recycling old boards into new ones. This way, we won’t actually be cutting anything down haha. As fun as it’s been making boards that people can actually skate as well as put on their wall – the next boards we do will be much more of an art piece. More time and effort will be going into each board, they’ll be super limited.

Do you feel skateboarding has played an important role in developing Goma?

Yeah definitely. There’s a lot that can be learnt from skateboarding, aside from the products and content that companies put out. A lot of the people involved with Goma are skaters, so there will always be some kind of influence, but it’s never going to be the driving force behind what we do.

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Are there any other brands/people that you look towards for inspiration or who share a similar ethos?

Patagonia is a big one for me, they have been for a while now. Their brand is built on a lot of really good principles and on top of it all, they give 1% of their sales to organisations working on preservation and restoration of the environment. They’re definitely doing it right. Satta, is another company that I think is setting a good example in terms of ethos. Other companies that I’m backing are Dime, Quasi and Carpet Company (they’re a new one from the states).

As a DIY brand, what have been the biggest hurdles to overcome?

The thing that’s been a bit annoying is not being able to make certain products because they aren’t widely made out of organic cotton. That’s definitely the biggest one. Something that I’m always working on is making sure that people are backing us for the right reasons and that as many people possible understand what we’re doing and why.

Has keeping the product to limited quantities helped to build the brand?

Yes and no. All our products have been produced never to be reproduced and they’ve been made in low quantities as well. I think that builds a small but strong base of people who really respect us for what we’re doing. This way people know they’ve got something a bit special, whether it’s a screen-print a skateboard or a t shirt. Equally it restricts the reach of our product a lot, it works both ways.

Prior to starting Goma did you have any previous experience in screen printing? Are you self taught?

Yep, a few years ago I printed T-shirts with my mate Joe at his house. We went really DIY and built all our own screens, exposure units and even a carousel. We were self-taught and it was a long process but it was a good feeling when we actually printed our first tee haha.

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You currently have the Nepal project which is available now and have also announced the Brazil Project which is set for release later this year. Why did you choose these two locations for the projects?

Gaurab was the first artist I wanted to work with for Goma. His trip to Nepal pretty much coincided with me starting Goma. It was a prefect thing to base a project on, I knew that trip would mean a lot to him and we would be producing something with actual meaning behind it. Brazil was a country I always had in the back of my mind when I was growing up. Last year I spent two months working and living in Rio. I was based in a place called Rocinha, it’s a favela in the south of Rio. It’s hand down the most visually stimulating place I’ve ever been to, and I was really inspired by the surroundings there, as well as the people. I left there wanting to show people what that favela was really like. A lot of people have a stereotypical image of guns/drugs and madness happening on every corner, which is really not what was going on.

What’s the inspiration behind the designs for the Nepal Project?

Gaurab drew all three images whilst he was in Nepal. At the time, there had just been two big Earthquakes, so there was a lot of reconstruction going on around him whilst he was there. However, for this trip he decided to focus on what was still standing, which led to him focusing on structures around him that are easily passed by.

Are there any other destinations that you would like to visit for a project?

There’s nowhere specific, but Rocinha definitely set the tone for me. I think there’s a lot to be learned from communities like that. They’re very cohesive and look out for each other. I’m definitely on the search for those kinds of places to find interesting community projects. Those communities definitely exist in England as well though; it’s not the kind of thing I have to get on a plane to discover.

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You have a new collaboration with artist Loyle Carner. Could you tell us a bit more on the project and how it came about?

The project we’re working on with Loyle is definitely a good indicator of where things will be going in the future. We started off the project with the idea of designing a collection of products, and using the money we made from sales to start a community project, a cooking school for young people with ADHD. He’s diagnosed with ADHD, and growing up he found cooking to be the one thing that would allow him to chill out and concentrate.

The cooking school is now the main focus. We’re still producing products but they’ll be on the back end of things. So, with our team of 8 young chefs, we’ll be have a month to train them up for a public dining experience they’ll be hosting in London. It’s been a lot of work so far, but we’re working with some great people and having just announced it online last week, it’s been amazing to see people’s comments about it.

Aside from producing the tangible goods you’re also very active in the community with events etc. Would you say that the clothing/hard goods is just a part of what is the ultimate goal for Goma Collective?

Definitely. The plan at the start was to make these products and use the money from the sales to do something good. The community projects are going to take more of a front seat in the future though.

4Do you have any plans to develop the clothing further?

The clothing for Goma will be taking a less important role after the Brazil project is released. It’s just not what I’m focusing on with Goma.

What’s next for Goma? Any more projects on the horizon?

Besides the cooking school and the Brazil project, I can’t say what else we’re working on, but you can expect a lot more to come from us in the new year.

 

www.gomacollective.com

 

 Words: Kieran Sills

Imagery: Michael Owen (Top Portrait), Sirus Gahan & Joshua Gordon (Bottom Portrait)

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Watch: “Hélas Polo Club” Mixtape

 

The Hélas Polo Club boys are back at it again in a new 15 minute ‘mixtape’ video following the release of their Spring 2016 Quickstrike Collection. Filmed over the Summer of 2015 in Paris and Barca, the clip features riders Lucas Puig, Mark Del Negro, William Monerris, Karl Salah, Brian Peacock, JB Gillet,Max Geronzi, Marek Zaprazny, Pedro Attenborough, Jose Vivero Diaz, Brayan Albarenga, Thierry Gormit, Jesus Fernandez, Luypa Sin, Roman Lisivka, Stephen Khou, Clement Brunel, Tommy Zhao, Dan Leung. Enjoy the full video above and be sure to turn your speakers up for full enjoyment!

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